Dress, Girl's Victorian Ayrshire Whitework; Unknown maker; 1850-1860; WY.2019.2....
Dress, Girl's Victorian Ayrshire WhiteworkAbout this object
Unfortunately, we don't know very much about this beautiful embroidered dress.l Perhaps future research will reveal its past, but it is worthwhile knowing something of the history behind Ayrshire Whitework embroidery. It is also worth noting that every stitch in this dress has been made by hand. Satin stitch work is predominantly used for the floral designs, with button hole stitch used to finish edges and scallops, and the stiletto piercings. It is also worth noting the single tiny seam that joins the fabric of the skirt - so well executed and almost invisible so that it makes no impact at all on the embroidery.
The intricacy and delicacy of this work clearly demonstrates the skill of its makers, often working in poor light, and difficult conditions. From the 1820s onwards, the women of Ayrshire were employed as piece workers, in what would become a highly organised cottage industry. Outline designs were printed on cloth by Glasgow-based manufacturers, and each design was sent out with information on how long the embroiderer had to complete it and what rate they would be paid. Women worked in their own homes, fitting in their needlework with their many other duties, and embroidery often made a very substantial contribution to the family income. Indeed, many families may have found themselves totally dependent on their sewing abilities.
This was piecework, so speed was essential. Outlines and edgings would be completed by less experienced sewers, whereas needlepoint sections demanded the input of highly experienced embroiderers. Skills were passed from mother to daughter, with households often containing more than one sewer and even small children would be paid a penny a week for threading needles. A single hand could complete small items like collars, whereas more complex items such as dresses and Christening gowns would include the work of several women.
A range of factors led to the development of this beautiful form of white on white embroidery: improvements in the spinning and weaving of cotton and the availability of skilled weavers in Scotland at this time; the introduction of an embroidered lace which quickly became fashionable, and not least the skill of the girls and young women who became known as the 'Flowerers' of Ayrshire. By 1855 however, embroidery machines were introduced, and Ayrshire needlework was superseded.
Looking at the Ayrshire items in our collection is a fascinating experience, and even today textile historians continue the debate ... that such fine and painstaking work led to horrendous difficulties with eyesight and posture is well-documented. But the work was also considered preferable to that in an industrial setting, which later became the only option for many young women. We are very fortunate that we are still able to admire their skill, even if we should also wonder at the personal cost.
Needle workerDate Made
organic, processed material, vegetal, fibre, cotton
organic, processed material, animal, animal product, shell, mother-of-pearl
h 670 mm x w 1040 mmSubject and Association Keywords
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